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We use wiring diagrams in a lot of diagnostics, when we are not careful, they can now and again lead us to make decisions which aren't accurate, trigger wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for the replacing parts who are not defective, and even just missing a fairly easy repair.
Today, the wiring diagram essential to support a particular repair procedure is roofed within that article or one of the links is provided to the correct SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. As an example, the wiring diagram for your Ford EEC-IV system may very well be built into ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for just a cruise control system may very well be included in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the particular vehicle manufacturer, and also the wiring diagram for an anti-lock brake system may be contained in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the particular manufacturer.
During my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to train on a multimeter), I gave a shorter troubleshooting example during which I often tried a multimeter to confirm that voltage was present. In case your device—say, an electric motor—isn't working, first determine whether voltage is reaching it once the switch that powers the device is turned on. If voltage is present on the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between wire to the device's negative terminal and ground (first one's body of your vehicle, and then the negative battery terminal). When it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to check for an increased resistance failure. If your voltage drop test shows no problem, the set up is toast.